How to Install Roof Shingles

Looking for a fresh, durable finish for your building? Roof shingles are a great option. Once installed, they cover your roof, giving it an extra waterproof barrier and making it look good too.

Whether you’re doing a complete renovation or just fitting felt shingles on a shed roof, we’re here to help. This guide will show you exactly how to install roof shingles from start to finish. We will cover the prep work, the materials you need, and the simple step-by-step process. So, grab your tools, and let's get started.

Useful links

TOOLS

MATERIALS

SAFETY

USEFUL LINKS

Roof shingles are a cost-effective, long-lasting covering for pitched roofs on homes, sheds, and other outdoor buildings.
A successful installation requires a flat roof deck with a minimum 12.5-degree slope and a felt underlay for weather protection.
You fit the shingles by working upwards from the eaves, nailing them in place with galvanised clout nails, and securing the joints with bitumen adhesive.

What are roof shingles?

Roof shingles are a brilliant, cost-effective roofing solution. They consist of overlapping pieces of material that cover a roof, providing a waterproof barrier and contributing to a building’s aesthetic appeal.

Available in plenty of materials and colours, roof shingles are a popular choice for pitched roofs, and because they’re so versatile, they work well on most homes, summerhouses, and other outdoor buildings.

Is my roof suitable for shingles?

You'll want to survey your existing roof structure before installing any shingles. Check to see if it requires maintenance or strengthening.

You need a decked roof fixed to rafters or supported on a trussed roof structure. Any bumps or irregularities in the decking will show through your felt roof shingles once they're laid, so make sure the surface is flat and in good condition.

Next, grab a protractor and measure the slope of your roof. This tells you if it's suitable for roofing shingles and how much prep you need to do.

Roof deck: roofing shingles must be laid on a roof deck fixed in accordance with the relevant British Standards & Codes of Practice. Shingles can be laid over existing roofing felt, but the surface must be flat and in good condition.

Minimum roof slope – 12.5 degrees
Minimum deck thickness – 12mm

Underlay: roofing shingles underlay must be used on roof slopes below 20 degrees or a 1 in 5 gradient. It’s good practice to always use a roofing underlay below shingles. Roofing felt underlay should be laid on the roof with 15cm end overlaps and fixed by nailing with 10mm large-headed galvanised clout nails at 10cm intervals.

Applying roof shingles: finally, fix the roofing shingle tiles in accordance with the guide below. Any irregularity in the surface of the decking will become visible through the shingle strips once they’re laid. If shingles are laid on roof slopes greater than 45 degrees, fix a second row of 5 nails per strip along the top edge of the shingle strip. This allows them to be used for vertical wall cladding applications.

How to install roof shingles

Now that your roof is prepped, it's time to apply the roof shingles.

Start by positioning and unrolling the detail strip so it sits square to the line of the eaves. Fix it in place by nailing the top edge with 10mm galvanised clout nails. Form the drip edge towards any guttering or nail it to the fascia at 5cm intervals.

When laying down your first strip, double-check the shingles are positioned square to the eaves. Align your tiles horizontally by interlocking the side slots to the edges of the shingles. Then align them vertically by opening the guide slots in the top of the shingle strip. This makes it easy for the next strip to fit right in.

Overlay your first shingle strip and fix it using 20mm galvanised clout nails. Make sure you place these nails in line with the tile joints. Fix them just above the bitumen adhesive strip.

To finish fixing these shingles, apply a bit of felt lap adhesive onto the detail strip right below each tile.

Continue laying the shingles diagonally across the roof. Take care to keep each tile square to the line of the eaves and the verge. Cut your tile strips to length so they form a neat 'broken bond' pattern as you lay them down.

Prepare the joint by brushing off any roof debris. Lift the tile tab and gently heat the bitumen adhesive strip on the lower course with a high-performance hot air gun.

Press the tile firmly down with a batten. Give it time to cool, then check the bond. If it doesn't feel secure, simply apply some felt lap adhesive to hold it.

Apply felt lap adhesive onto the detail strip, then overlay the shingle tiles. Nail the shingles down at the verge to fully secure them in place.

Mark out and unroll the detail strip along the roof ridge line. Secure it by nailing the edge down with 20mm galvanised clout nails spaced at 10cm intervals. If your building is in an exposed area, use felt lap adhesive for extra security against the wind.

Once you've fixed the detail strip for the ridge shingles, cut the shingles to fit. Always mark out and cut along the underside of the tile. Use a batten to mark the line and protect your fingers while cutting.

If you prefer not to use a detail strip for the ridge line, you can use pre-cut shingle ridge tiles instead. It's a straightforward alternative.

Position the shingle tiles along the ridge. Secure them straight through the overlap section using 20mm large-headed galvanised clout nails.

Further secure your ridge tiles by heating the bitumen strip and applying pressure with a batten. In more exposed locations, it's wise to reinforce the tile overlap bonding. Just apply a strip of felt lap adhesive about an inch in from the tile edge.

By taking your time and following these simple steps, you've given your building a durable, weatherproof finish. Whether you've updated a garden shed, a summerhouse, or another outdoor building, your new roof shingles will protect your space for years to come.

If you're feeling inspired to tackle your next DIY task, take a look at our guide on how to build a shed.

FAQs

The short answer is no. Both shingles and tiles are used to cover pitched roofs, but shingles tend to be cheaper than tiles and have a lower life expectancy. However, recent developments in technology means they are now very durable and are often designed to last 20-25 years. Roof shingles are available in a wide range of materials, such as bitumen, wood, plastic or metal.

Yes, you can. Roof shingles are an excellent choice for sheds, summerhouses, and other outdoor buildings. They provide excellent weather protection and look fantastic. Just make sure your shed roof has a slope of at least 12.5 degrees and a solid 12mm deck before you start.

If new roof shingles are curling, first allow them time to settle during warm weather, as they may flatten on their own. If they remain curled, it’s likely due to improper installation (misaligned, missing nails) or poor attic ventilation which will need to be checked by a professional.

Choosing the right roof shingle colour involves matching the shade to your home's architectural style, siding, and trim while considering climate and neighbourhood aesthetics. Popular, versatile choices include charcoal, black, and weathered wood, which offer a timeless look and high kerb appeal.